International Wine Cellar

2008 Dehlinger Winery Chardonnay See's Selection Russian River Valley

($32) Bright yellow-gold. Melon, pear, pungent spices and flowers on the ripe nose, along with suggestions of dusty minerals. Densely packed and supple, with a restrained sweetness and a strong spicy overtone to its orchard fruit flavors. Finishes long and strong, with assertive spiciness and an echo of sweet melon. There's a good portion of the musque clone of chardonnay in here, Dehlinger told me. 90

2007 Dehlinger Winery Chardonnay Estate Russian River Valley

Pale gold. Smoky, mineral-driven nose hints at apple butter, iodine, jasmine and buttered toast. Juicy and tight, with bracing acidity and a distinctly saline, iodiney character to its fresh orchard fruit flavors. A refreshingly bitter lemon pith quality adds lift and cut to a long, smoky, penetrating finish. 92

Bright yellow-gold. Fresh Meyer lemon and green apple aromas are complemented by dusty minerals and quinine. Plump and juicy on entry and through the middle, then tightens up on the back end, displaying sweet citrus and melon character. Offers a suave blend of fat and structure, with very good finishing spiciness and cut. 90

2007 Dehlinger Winery Pinot Noir Goldridge Vineyard Russian River Valley

V ivid red. Pungent, expressive aromas of blackberry, pepper, rose and spices. Round and silky, with a firm mineral spine shaping the dark berry and spicecake flavors. Offers very good depth and sweetness, and finishes with strong cut and spicy persistence. 91

Deep, bright red. An alluringly perfumed nose displays raspberry, strawberry, Asian spices and wisteria. Suave and silky, with mineral-driven, gently sweet red berry flavors and a touch of cola. More delicate and pure than the Goldridge. Not a powerful wine but focused, vibrant and very seductive already. Tannins arrive late and allow the subtle finishing flavors to fan out impressively. 92

2007 Dehlinger Winery Pinot Noir Goldridge Vineyard 33 Year Old Vines Russian River Valley

Vivid ruby. Deeper-pitched on the nose than the Estate, showing blackberry and cherry skin and a touch of star anise. Offers brighter red fruits in the mouth, with dusty tannins adding support and grip. The finish repeats the cherry note and lingers with excellent persistence, leaving spices and candied flowers behind.92

2007 Dehlinger Winery Pinot Noir Reserve Russian River Valley

Saturated red. Captivating, nuanced aromas of black raspberry, Asian spices, cocoa powder and potpourri. Silky and sweet on entry, then brilliantly vibrant and delineated in the middle, with explosive floral pastille and mineral qualities lifting the flavors of crushed red and dark berries and blood orange. The wine's pungent minerality gives it a weightless impression and extends the long, juicy finish. You could drink this now but it really deserves another five years of patience.93

2007 Dehlinger Winery Syrah Goldridge Vineyard Russian River Valley

Inky purple. Blackberry, cherry-cola, fresh herbs, pepper and licorice on the nose, plus hints of dried flowers and spice. Smooth and suave in the mouth, with a distinctly juicy quality and very good intensity to its fresh dark berry and floral flavors. This vinous, focused wine finishes with silky tannins and very good length. 91 points

2007 Dehlinger Winery Syrah Estate Bottled Russian River Valley

Glass-staining purple. Youthfully wound-up aromas of blackberry, cassis and bitter chocolate, plus a strong note of licorice. Deeply pitched dark fruit flavors are given a bitter edge by a dark chocolate quality and are framed by chewy tannins. The finish is firm, gripping and intensely spicy. Distinctly potent syrah with excellent potential: no way I'd be opening this one anytime soon. 92(+?)

2007 Dehlinger Winery Claret Russian River Valley

Deep, bright ruby. Sweet, inviting aromas of cherry, plum, mocha, chocolate and tobacco. Juicy and shapely, with good energy to the blackcurrant, bitter cherry and smoke flavors. Offers a suave blend of ripeness and lift and finishes with fine, palate-dusting tannins and very good length. An immediately accessible wine that's also balanced to age. 90

2007 Dehlinger Winery Cabernet Sauvignon East Ridge Russian River Valley

Inky purple. Powerful, high-pitched aromas of boysenberry compote, blackcurrant and dried flowers. Lush dark fruit flavors possess liqueur-like depth but are surprisingly lithe, with gentle mineral lift and cut on the back half. Seductively sweet and expansive cabernet, finishing with impressive breadth and penetration. (JR) 91

2007 Dehlinger Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Russian River Valley

Opaque purple. Blackberry, cassis and cherry-vanilla on the nose, with hints of tobacco and cedar adding complexity. Pliant and sweet on the palate, with primary dark berry and bitter cherry flavors and a good whack of vanillin oak and spices. Supple tannins build with air and add definition to the long, sappy finish. Showing its 50% new oak right now but the fruit seems more than up to it.90

Bright medium red. Alluring perfume of strawberry, raspberry, potpourri and incense, along with a bright mineral overtone. Precise red berry flavors are deepened by smoky minerals and notes of candied rose and cinnamon, with fine-grained tannins adding support. Very sexy pinot, with excellent finishing clarity, spiciness and lingering sweetness. 92

Vivid red. Deep red and dark berry scents are complicated by smoky Indian spices, black tea and dried rose. Weightier than the Goldridge, and more powerful as well, offering dense, chewy red berry compote and cherry flavors. The finish repeats the cherry and spice notes and lingers impressively, with gentle tannins adding grip. I marginally prefer the Goldridge today, for its suavity and vivacity. 91

(100% cabernet sauvignon) Bright red. Pinot-like aromas of redcurrant, raspberry and rose, with a vibrant mineral undertone. Sweet, tightly focused red fruit flavors are framed by dusty tannins and given lift by a tangy mineral quality. A suave, understated, nicely balanced wine that finishes with very good clarity and tangy berry skin notes. 90

Deep, bright red. Spicy red- and blackcurrant on the nose, with slow-building floral and smoky mineral notes adding complexity. Fresh red fruit flavors are firmed by tangy minerals and take on a refreshingly bitter cherry skin quality with air. Puts on weight in the glass and finishes with excellent focus and lingering floral character. This is one of the few cabernets still made from vines in the Russian River Valley. (JR) 91

Bright red. Deep black and blue fruit aromas are complemented by dried rose and cola. Candied blackberry and blueberry flavors coat the palate and are firmed by fine-grained tannins. The cola note gains strength on the finish, which is alluring sweet, sappy and very long. For a big wine, this is precise and graceful. 92

Glass-staining purple. Powerful, pungent blackberry, cassis, candied violet and black olive aromas. Sappy dark berry flavors firm up with air, picking up sweet cola, sassafras and candied floral qualities. Leaves spicy red and dark berry notes behind on the sharply focused, gently sweet aftertaste. 92

Inky purple. Classic syrah scents of cassis, black raspberry, violet, smoke and olive tapenade. Sharply focused red and dark berry flavors are complicated by cracked pepper and candied flowers, with supple tannins adding support. The floral note gains strength on the pure, sweetly persistent finish. This energetic wine is delicious now but I'd give it at least another three years of aging. 91