From The Connoisseur's Guide to California Wine
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2007 Dehlinger Winery Pinot Noir Estate Russian River Valley
Tom Dehlinger has never been one to hold back on Pinot Noir and leaves the making of delicate wine to others, and his style can be no better seen than in this bold and deeply filled effort. When, as in such stellar harvests as 2007, all the pieces fall into place, even the naysayers who cannot see past alcohol content are bound to be taken with the kind of richness and wonder-fully concentrated fruit that this deep, remarkably well-balanced bottling shows. It will hold and improve for many more years, but whether drunk now or saved for later, it needs to be paired with appropriately rich foods. 95
2007 Dehlinger Winery Pinot Noir Goldridge Vineyard 33 Year Old Vines Russian River Valley
Do note the designation of vine age on the label as it distinguishes this wine from a previously released Goldridge bottling. True to the Dehlinger style it possesses plenty of power and is packed with ripe fruit, but there is an unmistakable sense of polish and layering about it as well. As it so capably proves, big can be balanced and does not always mean heavy, and those who are not tempted now by its opulent youth will find more complexity and refinement some five years hence. 92
2006 Dehlinger East Face Syrah Russian River Valley
Winemaker Tom Dehlinger knows how to handle high ripeness, and his wines are brilliant rebuttals to those who claim that less is more. This highly extracted bottling exhibits keen Syrah focus and, while very deep, dense and chewy, it is simply loaded with rich spiced fruit and is always more about muscle than fat. Rife with blackberries, pepper and sweet oak, it is still tightly wound and a wine that wants time. Leave it alone for at least five or six years, and do not be surprised if it were to continue to grow for another decade or more. 93 |